MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I'm guessing putting a set of 455 heads on there and a sheet metal intake manifold isn't an option? :twisted: I did a bit of searching, and found that TTA Performance makes a conversion gasket option for this, but there's currently no off the shelf manifold.

http://www.ttaperformance.com/cylinder ...

Yes, that's it.

If you want VVTi control, you'll need something in the MS3 family - that is supported separately at msextra.com.

A MicroSquirt can run the engine if not using VVTi though.

https://gallery.mailchimp.com/be4a7c7bc17032eb7e37b973f/images/660018df-e7bd-4386-85d9-0d6a145f1f7e.jpg

This is the biggest sale we've had all year - and will probably be the biggest sale we have until next Thanksgiving. Use coupon code BF2017 to receive 10% off, starting now through November ...

One thing I discovered is it needs a decent power supply. Seems to need more current to load code than simply running with a Stim on test. Just something to check. Other thing is I always use the old desktop with proper serial port. Takes one more thing like the USB adaptor out of the equation ...

Yes, the Pertronix basically acts like a set of points, replicated out of solid state components. I've put together some notes on how to use the MS2 with this system here:

https://www.DIYAutoTune.com/support/tec ... x-ignitor/

Please post a screen shot of the messages you got. There may be important clues in their exact wording.

You'd need to set it up like this:

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm

Try a trigger angle of 69 instead of -21 and see if that helps.

The position may not be very consistent when used this way, but if combined with a crank trigger it should work. The cam sensor would only be used for phase detection.

I suspect the MAP increase is caused by whatever is going wrong. Can you post a copy of the tune file as well? That will give everyone more to go on.

You might want to PM Andy Whittle on this one - he goes by the screen name "whittlebeast" and has usually been on the MSExtra.com forum. He's done a number of watercraft installs.

Can you post your MSQ?

Sorry, I thought you were referring to the 40 pin header.

Pin 24 is the tach input; pin 36 is a spark output. Did the factory tach run off the coil or off a 0-12 volt signal?

Pin 1 is 5 volt power and pin 2 is ground. The good news is that if you accidentally soldered them to each other, the board isn't likely to damage itself further and you can get the short fixed. I'd check if the solder has gotten through the pins and come out on the top of the board, creating a ...

The proto area is just a set of holes you can solder the parts to. The individual holes do not connect to each other on their own.

Right here.

https://www.DIYAutoTune.com/support/tec ... /jimstimx/

Sure, I'd run the standard stepper jumpers as they can be put to other uses.

3 wire is PWM, not stepper, and wires as you described.