MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I believe you're better off aiming for 80% duty cycle at max power?

(have to say I love how smooth my engine is with a 300 deg cam too!)

Just run it at a higher idle then— it's not like you'll be stopping at junctions on the track

The MS3 has USB.

Or else an adapter is cheap

I am running a 300 degree cam, 2l straight six engine with a single throttle body.

Not an issue with my MAP signal at all.

TunerStudio shows what it is? What is the difference?

As long as you've checked it's accurate with a timing light at a set point (TS says it's 10 degrees and you can see it's 10 on the crank etc) then that's what it is?

Probably not very scientific but you could measure the gap it will jump.

What's wrong with using those specs?

With a turbo you're going to always be sucking in warm air almost from startup anyway?

They're inside the cabin anyway — the only one I have concern is the one I used on my injector loom — but that hasn't had any issues.

Dave — I bought one of those units — both the fuse and relay. It's actually HUGE when you come to handle it and try and work out where to put it. In the end I went for the snap together — it has made a really nice compact unit. I wish I had used nicer more compact multiway connectors, the mate-n-loc...

I used these along with multiway connectors: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_RELF_1KIT.html http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Mate ... ctors.html :makes for a very nice fused setup. Below is the unit I used to replace the relay board. It provides 4 ganged relays very similar to yours. Alth...

I agree with Ken. I don't like the relay box. You can do everything so easily with properly crimped connectors. I used these along with multiway connectors: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_RELF_1KIT.html http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Mate-N-Lock_Connectors.html :makes for a very nice fu...

I wouldn't use microphone wire— it's unlikely going to be up to automotive use with heat and oil etc

There are plenty of places that will sell you proper stuff.

Yup that'll work great, it's how I had mine set up for the same reasons as you. I had it running sensors, then running ignition and then a couple of months later got all the injection sorted.

A nice way of doing it as you can check everything is working well.

Lance wrote:Those who object to metric units should feel free to contact these folks: http://www.bipm.org/en/si/

Made me chuckle

The shield doesn't go to anywhere on the MS— it should ONLY be connected at one end.

You can use pin 4 as your PIP/SAW shield for convenience— easier than using pin 7 for both VR and PIP/SAW.

Only at one end— not both.

They are both connected internally— it just makes for a neater install to use pin 4 for the PIP/SAW shield— as it's right next to it.

Hi Andy,

I used this as the ground for the PIP/SAW signal shield when I was using the EDIS6 with a Megajolt.

James

Mine are just connected with fuel clips directly to standard hard tubing— it's only done 1500 miles or so but they seem to be ok so far.