Too cool to pass up! opinion please

[texcat101]

I am doing a '00 4.3 vortec / 700R4 swap into my '85 4runner- removing the 22re, I found this MPI intake for 4.3 vortec mercruiser (cheap) and could not resist. (24 lb. injectors, TPS, an odd looking vacuum operated fuel regulator and some other sensors that I may not have identified correctly IAT ? and Fidle?)
I have the vortec donors wiring harness which does not have the ECU or the injector loom as it was CPFI. A buddy gave me a 36/1 wheel for the EDIS, and I have found several EDIS 6 systems on ebay. One reason for converting to EDIS is the distributor location and firewall clearance is the only tight spot for this engine swap.
I have been researching MS and MJLJ and EDIS 6 and have the big picture, I am excited to learn these systems but would like some help from the MS veterans on the general direction I should take with this project. I could not find anything as a pattern ( toyota, chevy, mercruiser ). which components should I use and why? If this were your project which way would you go?
Thanks for the help!

[Matt Cramer]

This would probably have a stepper IAC valve, and as such I'd use a Megasquirt-II. Although that definitely isn't a swap you see everyday, it should be pretty straightforward from a wiring standpoint.

[texcat101]

This would probably have a stepper IAC valve, and as such I'd use a Megasquirt-II. Although that definitely isn't a swap you see everyday, it should be pretty straightforward from a wiring standpoint.

"Roger that "IAC valve,
I was leaning toward the Megasquirt -II , will it control the EDIS or do I need the MJL/MJLJr ?
Do I need a sequencer for the MPI?
From the picture I posted can anyone identify the sensor on top at the rear? MAP or IAT?

Thanks for the help!

[Ollie8974]

MegaSquirt will control EDIS with out MJL or MJLjr.
One thing to keep in mind when converting to EDIS ign. is you still need the distributor shaft to drive the oil pump.
I belive Accel or MSD makes an oil pump drive for the chev V8 I dont know if the 4.3 V6 is the same,
or you could cut down a stock distributor.

[Matt Cramer]

You can batch fire this one, no Sequencer needed.

I suspect that's a MAP sensor on there - IAT sensors are pretty small and have only two wires on them.

[texcat101]

MegaSquirt will control EDIS with out MJL or MJLjr.
One thing to keep in mind when converting to EDIS ign. is you still need the distributor shaft to drive the oil pump.
I belive Accel or MSD makes an oil pump drive for the chev V8 I dont know if the 4.3 V6 is the same,
or you could cut down a stock distributor.

Thanks for the info! I had been planning to cut down the stock distributor as I could not find a sub drive. I will check MSD and Accel.

[texcat101]

You can batch fire this one, no Sequencer needed.

I suspect that's a MAP sensor on there - IAT sensors are pretty small and have only two wires on them.

Thanks for the help Matt !

[texcat101]

This is the bosch sensor - combination map and iat with 4 pin terminal. I have looked all over the web for the connector pigtail for it without any luck. I found info on the sensor that suggests it was used on '02-'04 LG3 4.3 v6's as well as the marine intake.
I can use the 3 pin map sensor and pigtail from my other intake with a slight modification and fab a hold down bracket but I would prefer the new combo sensor if there are no conflicts with MS.
Can anyone identify a source for the connector?
Any GM techs that can verify 4 pin map on the LG3 v6?
FYI, pin assignment is as follows:
1. ground
2. NTC resistor
3. +5v
4. output signal

[Ollie8974]

You might check with a boat repair shop.

[PSIG]

I'd just toss the combo sensor and replace it with a push-in GM IAT sensor. Simple, cheap and everywhere.

David

[FixItAgainTony]

This does not have the exact sensor in it, but it should give an idea of the connections and the connector part numbers (pdf page ~34 or so):
http://www.bosch.com.au/content/languag ... cation.pdf

or:
http://www.bosch.dk/content/language1/d ... 6_2007.pdf
Handy reference for some of the Bosch stuff.

I'm with David, but it might be worth keeping around as a second MAP sensor for continual barometric correction if there is a need for that.

- Charles.

[texcat101]

I got my harmonic balancer with the universal 7 1/4" trigger wheel back from the local machine shop yesterday. Very good work its almost "press fit" tight, but can be worked on by hand. I am thinking of using some loctite sleeve retainer #640 to hold it in place.
BTW, the machinist is megasquirting a v12 jag he was asking about the trigger wheel EDIS setup for the v12 application.

My marine intake had an open combo IAT/MAP sensor in the intake. I am building this rig for my annual trips to Colorado where we run the high mountain passes up to 14,000 ft. , so keeping the MAP for 2nd Baro seems to make sense. My question is why wouldn't I also want the IAT in the stock location? As I have searched for info on IAT location preferances I am not finding anything. Where should a MS IAT be located for my application?

[FixItAgainTony]

Nice looking 36-1 wheel.
The biggest problem with air temperature is heat soak. The air temperature is used to help calculate the amount fuel as given by the ideal gas law. If the IAT is mounted on the engine, restart of the engine after sitting for a bit may be difficult. The air temperature into the engine will probably be close to ambient, depending on where the air intake is located (under the hood versus cold air intake). The heat soaked IAT may report a higher temperature, which will make MS think that less air is coming into the engine than is actually going in => fuel will be cut back. Locating the air temperature away from the engine and closer to the air intake allows it to more accurately indicate the actual air temperature into the engine. The open IAT element sensors respond faster than the closed kind.

More here:
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#clt
First I have heard of the vibration induced reliability problem, but it makes sense. The open element sensor will probably respond fast enough that heat soak would not be too much of a problem. That looks like a plastic intake, which will also minimize heat soak. I'd try it and see - it is easy to move if needed.

a search for "iat heat soak" may come up with some more info.

Charles.

[texcat101]

Thanks Charles, thats very helpful information.
I am thinking an open IAT in the cold air intake stream makes sense, just from the nature of the design the advantage for rapid adjustment would be worthwhile.
I installed the VR sensor and had an early visit from Santa today!