Newb just checking in

[Ali]

Hey folks, merry Christmas to y'all!

I'm in the process of pissing about with my firs Ms, I bought a bult ecu from is it Phil? On the extra efi site well over a year ago and I eventually made noise and fire today it's on a 1UZFE all standard wasted spark on EDIS coils 12-1 trigger semi sequential injection in a wee landcruiser LJ71 with a manual box

Well after screwing about with a 36-1 trigger wheel and the for sensor I had no luck getting a good clear signal, it has been done many times before but I reckon the trigger wheel I got and mated with the original one was on the tight side for fitting 36 gaps into So I was taking to a fella from Canada and he is running close to the same set up and said he gave up and went with the original trigger and ground a tooth off, so I coppied him and got a look at his map, hey and hour or so later it's limps into life!! The smile on my face was almost painful!

But it was pulsing and would bog down with some exhaust flames not much backfire problems at all and the tach on tuner studio fluctuates between 1000 and 0 it wound randomly idle nice at about 800 for just a couple seconds too. So now iv had a look I'm going back out tomorrow to play with the pots on the ecu board to try and dial in the sensor a bit.

Any other tips and tricks would be freekin awesome because at this point I'm getting out of my depth.

Cheers all,

[trakkies]

The VR input on the V3 board does seem to be a source of (at the very least) confusion - possibly because it's designed to cope with pretty well any sensor, so is adjustable. And the instructions suggesting it will normally work with both the pots on the default fully anti-clock positions don't much help either.
The best way is to connect a 'scope to Tsel which is the input from the processor from the VR conditioner and adjust things to get a good clean 5v peak to peak pulse. You don't need a posh workshop 'scope for this - there are a number of cheap battery ones on the market these days, something like £20 will buy you a new one off Ebay, without case. It can also be used to look at the VR sensor output. And to look for noise on circuits, etc.

I usually find that it's only R56 which needs adjusting. (It's the one at the edge of the board) Something like 6-8 turns clockwise from the fully anti-clock start is usually what I end up with, if it doesn't work on the default. You need to check it at either end of the rev range too.

When I build an MS, I fit a solid bare wire loop between Tach Select to VR in, and VR out to Tsel, both on the component side. Makes it easy to attach a scope probe, etc. A vero pin or similar in one of the proto area grounds is a good idea too - to give an easy to access decent ground.

[Ali]

Thanks for that! I'll go and buy one of these scopes now, I seen them and wasn't sure but now you say it'll be fine that'll do me! And I forgot to put it is indeed a ms2 v3 sorry.

I just posted on the other sub forum before I seen you had replied, but I was at it for a bit today and can't get the pots to click in the slightest either way I didn't want to go too nuts and damage them but must of tried 20 turns anti clockwise and just settled on they must be all the way there,

[Ali]

Back again, still waiting on my scope arriving but I was out playing with the Ms today and adjusted the R56 about 7 turns and she started and idled great but lost sync at about 1500 rpm so when it was still running I adjusted the pot some more and got it fairly sweet, actually got it pretty damn good and thought that was it! But I swtched it all off to check over stuff and it wouldn't start/sync until I adjusted the pot way back down to where it wouldn't run right again.

Now I'm also waiting on a proper plug for my crank sensor so the terminals are just botched in there just now, Im thinking the bare metal of the terminals could be picking up noise or would a plasic plug not really work as a shield? The terminals are by no means loose and are separated by a bit of plastic to insulate them from each other

Any ideas more than welcome thanks!

[trakkies]

I can't speak for every possible combination, but I generally set the VR gap to 1mm (same as EDIS) and find R56 will start letting the processor see a signal at about 6 turns in at low revs and needs increasing to 7-8 for higher revs.

That's with the VR circuit component values to the current spec - several have been changed over the years.

Look at D24 at the bottom of the PCB just above the '2005' writing. If it is a 1N4148 (usually brown in colour) it's likely the latest spec. If a 1N4004 (usually black) best to check the entire circuit. I found the earlier version to be far more sensitive to settings at high pulse rate.

BTW, since your using an ECU from ExtraEFI you're likely also using Extra code. So best to stick to that forum if you are.

[Ali]

Ah ok, I probably need shot because I just threw the sensor in there to an eye ball tolerance of 1mm or less. I'll re set that and go again when my new scope arrives

I was having bother with password control over on the extra site but your right enough I'll go try again