Multi Color Wiring

For discussing how to choose sensors and create a wiring harness for all Bowling and Grippo versions of the MegaSquirt® EFI controller.
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kev_rm
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Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2004 9:18 am
Location: Seattle, WA

Multi Color Wiring

Post by kev_rm »

Any creative sources for getting a bunch of relatively short lengths of multicolor wires? I've looked into a lot cables, like parallel printer cables, but can't find anything as big as 18 or 20 gauge.
1988 Mitsu Starion
$30/horsepower.
ransom
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Location: Portland, OR, USA
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Multi Color Wiring

Post by ransom »

On Jan 23, 2005, at 8:54 PM, kev_rm wrote:
> Any creative sources for getting a bunch of relatively short lengths
> of multicolor wires? I've looked into a lot cables, like parallel
> printer cables, but can't find anything as big as 18 or 20 gauge.
Have you checked out Rodney Sparks' site?
http://rs-autosport.com/
It's quite reasonable for the *right* stuff, right quantities, labeled and colored. Saved me a lot of time and hassle and uncertainty about whether the wire I found here and there was appropriate for underhood conditions and so forth.

-Jesse Ransom

(posted by email)
kev_rm
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Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2004 9:18 am
Location: Seattle, WA

Post by kev_rm »

more than a buck a wire, was thinking "creative" as cheap :) :) I will go this route if that's the only option other than buying a bunch of spools or using all the same color.
1988 Mitsu Starion
$30/horsepower.
donjr5
MegaSquirt Newbie
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2004 7:58 pm
Location: Pilot Point, Texas, USA

Post by donjr5 »

Just 8 cents per foot per wire...you can't buy it that cheap at the hardware store.
78Spit1500Fed
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Location: Terre Haute, Indiana
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Post by 78Spit1500Fed »

Go to the junkyard and rip out a wiring harness from an EFI vehicle. A GM vehicle especialy will have about a bajillion (yes, a bajillion) different color combos.

Don't be shy about it. Find a nice long section and just hack it off at two ends far enough appart to suit your length needs.

The last time I checked, copper doesn't have an expiration date!

-Brian
Rodney Sparks
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Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 7:29 am
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post by Rodney Sparks »

78Spit1500Fed wrote:Go to the junkyard and rip out a wiring harness from an EFI vehicle. A GM vehicle especialy will have about a bajillion (yes, a bajillion) different color combos.

Don't be shy about it. Find a nice long section and just hack it off at two ends far enough appart to suit your length needs.

The last time I checked, copper doesn't have an expiration date!

-Brian
The insulation does, however... that stuff is often pretty brittle, unless you can get into a section that a) hasn't had a lot of heat exposure, and b) has been taped up its entire life...

What do you need the colored wires for? I assume you're not building a complete harness out of it, right?

-Rodney
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Since July 2004. Standard lifetime warranty on all products. Home of the Super420A ECU!
78Spit1500Fed
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Post by 78Spit1500Fed »

True, Rodney; the newer the vehicle the better of course.

I recently pulled a fuse panel, harnes and firewall connector out of a 3rd gen F-body for my install. Unwound the tape and all was well. (It was an 85, so that's a good 20 years on the wire in question, with no insulation cracking whatsoever but it was in an interior)

-Brian
Jack
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Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 7:34 am
Location: Washington State - the wet side

Post by Jack »

78Spit1500Fed wrote:True, Rodney; the newer the vehicle the better of course.

I recently pulled a fuse panel, harnes and firewall connector out of a 3rd gen F-body for my install. Unwound the tape and all was well. (It was an 85, so that's a good 20 years on the wire in question, with no insulation cracking whatsoever but it was in an interior)

-Brian
I untaped the engine harness that came with my mid 80's Rover intake. Except for two leads with physical damage, the insulation under the tape, was in beautiful shape. I'm adding and removing a few wires and will retape and use it as is.

I was very surprised, as the harness in my Triumph TR8 has many areas subject to high heat and I've already replace several wire sections which were so brittle, looking at them made them crumble. This Rover harness is only a few years younger, but I'm assuming Rover upgrade the insulation and they definitely upgraded the routing. This harness saw only engine heat. The TR8's ends up being exposed to catalytic converter heat in a few areas.

It's definitely a case by case situation.

jib
1960 Triumph TR3 - To be squirted soon
1980 Triumph TR8 - Success story: http://www.msruns.com/viewtopic.php?p=142363#142363
mikesb
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Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 12:22 pm
Location: Markham, Ontario

Post by mikesb »

I used this: 9936K154, 20g 18 multi conductor numbered wire from http://www.mcmaster.com for my DB37 cable. I supplemented it with 2 pairs of 18g wire for the injectors. They've got a pretty good selection of stuff there, you can find just about anything you need.
Skiericski
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Post by Skiericski »

I used that same cable from Mcmaster for my harness. It's very flexible and nice to work with. The wires are all black, but they're all numbered all along the wire.

Another option is ebay. I recently bought 300 feet of 20ga teflon ins. silver plated wire for $33, I got 20 feet each of 15 different colors. Add a few 16 or 18 ga wires and you're golden.
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