MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

my fuel is way too rich all across the board. for some reason the ms2 is stuck on 12.1:1 afr. i have a ms2 with v3 board, using ford edis6 ignition, 4bar map, a aem eugo 30-4100 wideband, gm air and coolant temp sensors, stock toyota tps, etc.. i have the wideband wired correctly. i have the 0-5v output going to the gray o2 sensor wire on the ms2 starter harness which is pin 23. any ideas why it would be stuck on 12.1:1 afr? the aem shows 10:1 most the time, does go up and come back down if the throttle is blipped. so its working.

Have you tried the "calibrate AFR" settings in MT? Have you selected the correct WBO2 in MT?

yes i selected the correct wideband in the system.ini file and also in megatune i selected single wideband. not sure what you mean by calibrate afr. im pretty sure i had done that as well. ill have to double check when i get home. do you happen to have a screen shot of the screen i should see? im using megatun 2.25

I don't have MT on this pc, so I can't give you a screenshot, sorry. In MT: "Tools"-"Calibrte Afr Table"-enter your sensor type and press ok. Also, the MT gauge may not go below your AFR, so it bottoms out, appearing stuck. I changed mine, so I don't remember what the default settings are.

thanks for the help. ill try that when i get home from work and see if it helps why would the mt bottom out at 12.1:1 afr though? should go down to 10:1 like the wideband gauge i would think. or am i going to have to manaually enter every voltage for every afr? i have the info from the aem wideband that i can do that if necc.


btw, heres a short vid i made when i first started it up before finishing putting everything back and tapping up the harness etc... wanted to be sure it ran before i loomed it all up. lol.

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/w ... ure117.flv

devastator wrote:I don't have MT on this pc, so I can't give you a screenshot, sorry. In MT: "Tools"-"Calibrte Afr Table"-enter your sensor type and press ok. Also, the MT gauge may not go below your AFR, so it bottoms out, appearing stuck. I changed mine, so I don't remember what the default settings are.

Hmm ... I've never noticed that.

its fixed. 2 issues. first i didnt have the air temp and coolant temp sensors calibrated right. recalibrated them both as i didnt remember hwat i had put in before then the afr's started bouncing around like crazy. then i went to tools and calibrate afr and selected the linear aem widband and let it go through. turned it off and back on and now it reads the afr's. about 11.5ish at idle. too low. and when the throttle is blipped it jumps crazy lean for a second even though my fuel map should be pretty damn rich.guess i need to wait till i got cash for gas and just hit start on the datalogging and take a cruise. lol. thanks for all the help guys. didnt know there were 2 spots to select the wideband type at.

Minami Kotaro wrote:Hmm ... I've never noticed that.

Never noticed which, the gauge or the calibrate AFR?

williamb82 wrote:and when the throttle is blipped it jumps crazy lean for a second even though my fuel map should be pretty damn rich

Your accel tables are probably way off. Tune the VE first, then move on to the accel tables, (as stated in the manual).

thats the plan. didnt drive it at all yesterday. been rereading the tuning manual. ill prolly wait till this weekend whe ni can fill the tank with 93 octane before doing anything. thinking since i got a wideband ill use the autotune to tune the ve while just driving around normal cruising. hopefully itll get me where i need to be. the afr table has already been filled in with the target afr's im after.

williamb82 wrote:thinking since i got a wideband ill use the autotune to tune the ve while just driving around normal cruising

Good plan. If you can't get this to work, however, try using MegaLog Viewer to adjust your VE table. MLV is less "fussy" IMHO.

well i figured the autotune should be better/easier then the megatweak 3000. figured do it real time and then save it. if it doesnt do it right i still have the current map saved as yesterdays date etc.. all i change from last time i drove it was recalibrating the wideband and temp sensors. all else is the same. if it fails ill try the datalog/megatweak thing. im still learning. so far isnt too hard. got it to fire up the first time. only prob was it died as fuel pump wasnt running. didnt realise pin37 was a switched ground and not +12v. doh. lol. and had the trigger wheel 6 teeth the wrong way so rotated it 12 teeth clockwise and bam, everything was spot on and fired and purred. lol.

williamb82 wrote:well i figured the autotune should be better/easier then the megatweak 3000.

Use MegaLog Viewer, not Megatweak 3000. I believe MegaTweak 3000 was before MegaTune, and does not perform the same function as MLV at all.

devastator wrote:Never noticed which, the gauge or the calibrate AFR?

Calibrate AFR. No version of MegaTune I've used has ever had it. My current one doesn't. Is this fairly new?

Minami Kotaro wrote:

devastator wrote:Never noticed which, the gauge or the calibrate AFR?

Calibrate AFR. No version of MegaTune I've used has ever had it. My current one doesn't. Is this fairly new?

It's an MS2-only feature, but it's been in MS2 under the Tools menu for quite a while.

Matt Cramer wrote:It's an MS2-only feature, but it's been in MS2 under the Tools menu for quite a while.

Oh. I'm MS1.

With MS1, the ECU sends the raw voltage reading to MegaTune and you tell it how to interpret that via the Configurator. With MS2, the calibration data is stored on the processor and it sends back the AFR itself.

idk how it works. all i know is it works and i like it. the only thing i wish i had done different is that i used an internal 4bar map sensor. wish i had gone with an external one. oh well, maybe il change it later. im just worried the longish 1/8th vac hose will get pinched or something. i did go ahead and buy a silicone vac line and it runs about 4-5in fromthe manifold tothe hole in the firewall and behind the dash to the passenger side where the ms2 is mounted behind the glove box so should be out of harms way. too bad the fitting on the case isnt threaded, id have put an adaptor to a 3an and run 3an ss braided line to it. anyone know of a short bulkhead that has the nipple for the internal map sensor that would be an an fitting on the otherside or at least threaded so i could run an -an line to it? that would be an easy change to make.

holy ever-loving poop!!!!!!!!!!!! my car is fast as hug now. lol. well, its pretty much tuned all the way using the auto tune feature and driving it for awhile and just burning it to the ms2 every time i was at a light or getting off the interstate. previously the boost was ~15psi and without touching the manual controller it spikes to 22psi then levels back down at ~19psi. this thing is sick(ive run 20psi on stock ecm and it never pulled like this). i think the correct afr's with a better timing curve then the stock ecu had is the source of all the added power. i cant beleive how much harder it pulls. with my nitto drag radials on the back from a 3rd gear roll i get tire spin!!!!!!!!!! just rolling on the throttle. damn. its awesome. i have had a pop in the upper rpms a couple times. my tach in the dash isnt working and i was watching the road not the laptop so i think i hit the rev limiter which is set to 7100rpm. i think the issue is im used to shifting when the power drops off up top, and the power doesnt drop off. lol. i need to hook my tach up or have someone ride with me holding the laptop thats brave enough to just look at it and tell me if i hit 7k or not. lol. all i want to do now is tune the tps response a lil more and i think its set. cruise is in the low 16's which is fine. egts' never get high, highest ive seen is like 1300 and thats under full boost in 5th. on stock ecm it would get in the low mid 1500's. mine is in the manifold right off the #6 exhaust port. ill post my msq when everything is perfect. i think the autotune needs to tweak the cruise afr's a lil more. just got to do more driving. afr's under boost are 12.3:1ish. pulls like mad. god im so happy right now. i thought id be tuning for weeks. im going to try and get my ffim built asap so i can install that and the new fmic and retune it some more. should make quite a big improvment that way. oh, and the engine just sounds totally diff. sounds so much meaner and nastier its unreal. i LOVE it!. i cant imagine what it will do when all my mods are installed. i have a garrett g4082 with a 0.68 a/r turbine housing to install as well once my ne i/c and ffim are installed. prolly gonna break the 5 speed again. lol. hopefully the t56 will hold once i get the flywheel i need so i can install it.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2042690/18

ok, did more tuning and found out what rpm the pop is at. had a friend riding shotgun watching the laptop since the stock tach doesnt work with the edis modules tach output. hopefully the automater tach ill be installing will. anyway, i changed the tps settings and it has instant throttle response now. however it is on tps only for accell enrichment. i dont know what i should enter for the map enrichment numbers so i can slide the bar over some to see if it helps. i get the super loud pop out of the exhaust and he said the highest rpm he saw was 5600rpm. rev limit should be 7100. any ideas what is causing it. also is it ok to cruise at low 16's high 15's for afr? i dont see why it would be bad as egt's are safe and itll just help gas mileage, but i dont need the engine running hot or anything. i either have a bad water pump or blown hg at this time. started over heating while crusing on the way home. no water in the oil, no white smoke, engine runs and idles perfect. no miss at all. i thin kthe water pump has just had it. this is a junkyard engine im using for testing and it had some nasty looking rust water when i pulled it from the boneyard. i put a metal hg and arp studs on this 7mgte at 90lbs like i always do. so i doubt i blew it but ill know for sure on wed as im off that day. gonna swap the water pump and do a flush with draino crystals. if that dont fix it bhg it is. no big deal, got another engine on the stand being rebuilt as we speak, ill just do some runs on this when its cold just to try and get the tune even better to perfect before the new engine goes in. any help would be greatly appreciated. btw, the last pop before the overheating prob was prolly 20-30min before the prob.

Without a datalog to study, we are just guessing at your popping problem. It could be decel, accel, temp based MS adjustments, or several other things. Fix your temp problems before you attempt to tune MS any further, including accel.

williamb82 wrote:gonna swap the water pump and do a flush with draino crystals.

Drano....really?

williamb82 wrote:also is it ok to cruise at low 16's high 15's for afr?

Watch your temp and listen for pinging, otherwise it is fine.