MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I have read tried the VR adjustment section, but still have had no luck. I'm using a stock Volkswagen VR crank sensor found on 1993-1999.5 2.0L engines. It has a 60 tooth wheel minus 2 teeth. I show continuity from the sensor to the MS connector. I have also verified that the sensor is working properly. I've tried turning the pot screws into adjustment and still no signal. I'm running short on time and my sanity. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I could also use some help with the crank wheel offset angle.

Are you using stock coil if you are I used logiclevel see this http://www.microsquirt.info/us_logic_level_spark.htm [url]
I'm running my factory tach from this signal also.

You could maybe get something from this MSQ. I'm running 2.886 code.

I'm using a waste spark coil pack from a 2000 up 2.0L. How did you wire the connector your VR sensor? I have it wired terminal 1: shielded. terminal 2: MS grounded, and terminal 3: Sensor ground to the engine. I thought I may have had it backwards so I moved the shielded wire to terminal 2 and the MS ground to terminal 1 to the sensor connector.

Thanks for the MSQ I will try it first thing tomorrow and let you know how it works.

You might say what your combo is and a few more might be able to help. The MSQ I posted is for a stock 94 Golf with a dizzy so some of this may not help you. The tooth count delay teeth etc may help you. I built a adapter out of an old ecu so that I can go back to the stock ecu if needed.

The list of modifications is a long one. In short It's a 2.0l ABA block with a 9a 16v head. I've installed a 16v distributor block off plate and I'm using waste spark coil pack from a 2000 up 2.0l. I learned today that what I thought was a VR sensor on the crank wheel is actually a hall effect sensor. So now my question is how much voltage should go to this sensor, and how should it be wired? I need to be able to at least move the car by Friday without the cost of a tow truck. Anyone know where to go from here?

I'm sure that if your VR sensor is from a 94 it is not a hall effect type.

What board,MS I or MS II,code version are you using. People need to know these things to help.

I'm using a MSII v3.57, controlling fuel and spark. I'm using the 60-2 oem crank wheel with the oem sensor. It's a 3 wire sensor. Direct coil, waste spark coil pack. I've tried everything that everyone has told me to try and still nothing. Swapped the positive and negative leads to the sensor, adjusted the vr pots, even re jumped the board for a hall sensor and still nothing. I've been told that this is a VR sensor and that it's a hall sensor. Anyone know what is going on here? Can someone straighten me out?

I got a rpm signal, finally. There was a bit of wire crossing and some unorthodox practices involved, but I finally saw my tach come to life. Thanks for everyone's help. I wasn't able to start it since it's 12:30 and curfew here is at 10, but tomorrow is a new day!

Ok, so I had a RPM signal and now I've lost it. It started out to be an intermittent signal and now has dropped off to nothing. I checked the capacitor on my alternator and it was in spec. I grounded the shield wire to the engine block. Still nothing. I'm really starting to wonder why I'm having such a problem getting a RPM signal. I'm about to throw my MS off a skyscraper. Please any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Are you certain that your VR sensor is not junk?

Yeah, I know that the VR sensor is good. A: It's brand new, and B: I've tested both voltage and frequency from the sensor. I have made one important discovery. I've been told repeatedly that this sensor is a hall sensor and not a VR. The reason everyone tells me this is because it is a 3 wire sensor. Wrong, it is a VR sensor the 3rd wire is a ground for the shielding of the sensor. It's a two wire signal with a 3rd shielding. The other problem that I've had is that board was not setup for a VR sensor so that's where I'm at now is re-soldering the board.

Sounds like you are on the right track now.