MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I have EDIS8 now and have a great tach signal and it fires up every time (knock on wood). Yay modern electronics!

I was able to open the spark plug gap up and then remove 10% fuel from idle. I'll have to see if I get any mileage improvements.

I think I'm going to give up on the stock dizzy and just try and set up Ford EDIS. I have the EDIS8 module and all the harnesses. Just need to weld the 36-1 ring up and figure a way to get the sensor in the right position.

Sometimes it fires up perfectly without any noise and then sometimes it'll ...

It's an MSD version.

I'll give an increase to skip count tomorrow and see if it gets rid of the spike. Thanks

Thanks Matt

So I ended up using the MSnE hei tach mod and that has pretty much all the tach noise cleared during cranking. I get one spike when I turn the key.
RPM
19867
0
0
0
0
147
289
366
564
688
701
693.....


Changed my max dwell to 6 for now. Is there a place where I can look up dwell settings ...

Still having problems with this.

I moved the VR wires away from everything. Added the OEM cap to the HEI ground. I increased the max dwell time up to 8 (it uses a ford tfi coil) and that gets it to fire easier, but the signal is still crazy during cranking. I thought I might have the VR wires ...

AMC 360 GM-TBI, MSII v3 assembled as per GM 7-pin instructions in the manual.

The Jeep is up and running well finally after some capacitor woes in the power circuit. 10000 uF capacitor installed into the 12v feed helped clean things up a bit. The Jeep usually fires right up, but sometimes it's ...

So Ms shut down a couple more times at random rpms. Switched c16 to 470 if and ran 50 miles and then c17 heated up about every mile. No way to go across alligator alley. Replaced c17 at a rest stop with another 470 if and ran the 100 miles home without a glitch. What harm can come from such a large ...

The lead between c16 and the negative foot of voltage regulator was toast. Must have had intermittent connection. Jeep runs better now....but my laptop has a corrupt windows system file. Can't tune any more and ill just have to make it home on that tune. If it ain't one thing it's another. Merry ...

D19 conducted both ways....so I replaced it. They didn't have the 6.2v so I used the 12v until I could get one. Car ran great drove for 40 min on the highway. So we decided to use the Jeep for our camping trip. Ran great until it just lost power. Ms had no flashing lights and megatune was ...

I replaced U5 and it still gets crazy hot. There was infinite resistance between the U5 holes when I replaced it. When U5 gets really hot the car stalls or MS shuts down. Any ideas?

Q9 was grounded! Thanks!

Got battery voltage and got everything retuned now that it isn't compensating for "12v" of battery difference.

It will idle forever, but now U5 heats up after driving for 5 min and everything shuts down....boo. I'll have to look through to see what that could be.

I checked voltage at R3 and there is almost nothing there.....0.10v. So Can I just get 12v to R3 or will I fry something?

Thank you for your help! I'm going to be a little dense here.....looking at the v3 diagrams.....do I need to jumper from the 12v DB37 pin to R3? I tried just jumpering from 12v DB37 to the lead of the fet it looks like it's going to and it started to smell like electrical burning so I shut it off ...

H1 is not jumpered. R3 and R6 read ~8k ohms each and appear to be soldered in OK.

I did notice the strip (copper strip embedded in the PCB) that passes from the power input 12v+ on the DB37 and goes on the outside corner on the bottom of the main board toward the FETs appears to have shorted at ...

My Jeep Grand Wagoneer has been running on MS1 v2.2 fuel only for almost three years now. My HEI4 pin module died so I decided to build a MS2 v3 (code 2.89 I think...whatever one is posted in the megamanual) and use a 7 pin so I could control timing.

I had to decrease my fuel A LOT and then it hit ...