MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Ok, after 3 nights of reading i joined to get some help (please).

I'm planning on microsquirting a GPz750 Turbo engine. It will be using High Imp injectors & it was suggested i use a VAG coilpack with a built in igniter.

I have limited space behind the ignition cover & this is where im stuck already! What wheel do i need to use & what sensor? I've read something about the sensor outputting AC voltage which needs to be changed to DC, does Microsquirt do this or do i have to? I have ordered a 24-1 wheel as i got it at a good price but i am stuck with the sensor, does it need to be 0.75-1mm away from the wheel edge? Is 36-1 wheel better for my application? The 24-1 wheel is quite large & i may have to put a hole in the case & use a length adjustable sensor.

Sorry guys, im totally lost, im seeing if i can figure this out before i throw the towel in!

What does the stock crank wheel and sensor look like?

The stock crank rotor & pickup is in the pic attached

I have posted this in the microsquirt forum as well after admin kindly pointed out there is also a specific Microsquirt forum! DOH!!!

This looks like the "two independent sensors" spark mode on MicroSquirt and is not terribly hard to use.

Do you mean I should be able to use my standard setup then?

I thought it would have to look something like this, if that's what I need it's the way I'd want it set up, nice & compact behind the ignition cover. I think the person that posted this pic was using the older microsquirt with the 7.5 A ignition outputs, I know the newer version doesn't have those & has improved pickup circuitry, if I have to change my pickups & wheel Ido I look for the same stuff?



It used this kind of sensor but i think J.Wilson is using an earlier Microsquirt so i don't know if it's the best for the later/current version

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effe ... s/7659321/


DIYAutoTune seem to recommend this one;

http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/hall ... p-479.html[/quote]

The multitooth wheel will give improved accuracy for spark timing during acceleration / deceleration, but the stock pickup system will still do an adequate job - it's been working for the past 20-30 years, right?

Ummmm....... well..... I actually don't know if it is! The engine came to me in a sorry state in boxes so i rebuilt it. I have no idea if the pickups/ Original Loom or ECU is working but they're in ok condition. I just thought this was a good oppetunity to upgrade or renew. The osiginal stuff will fry itself sometime & to fuel it properly i'll have to chop up a new Power commander 5

Thing about the pickups is they're 67 mm apart & i have never seen that size of a wheel. Besides this, would i only use 1 of the pickups & disconnect the other?

Oh yeah i'll be running o2 as well, can i get the wideband o2 reading & Boost (psi) to show on a gauge?, i need a 52mm one so it fits properly!

750steve wrote:Thing about the pickups is they're 67 mm apart & i have never seen that size of a wheel. Besides this, would i only use 1 of the pickups & disconnect the other?

If you keep the stock system, I'd keep both pickups. If you go with a toothed wheel (custom size, obviously - 12-1 can be made pretty small) then yes, you'd use a single pickup.

Thanks!! Using the stock stuff would make life & fitment easier!! Obviously there are 2 pickups as you say but how are these wired into microsquirt?

McroSquirt Hardware Manual

Twin Trigger / Dual Spark Section

Start reading - and have fun!

Cheers Don, that stuff has been melting my head for 4 days now, i'll clear some time & look at both those links

Don (if thats your name), you're a STAR!! You have no idea how much that has helped me out!! Thats exactly the info i was looking for as the whole timing wheel thing was putting me off or making it more complicated for me, there's little room becind the ignition cover on a bike never mind mounting it properly!!

Any recommended pleces to buy? Some cheap kits on ebay USA but i'd rather support a forum vendor/seller.

Steve, you are most welcome. My name really is Don, and I used to (in my younger, slimmer days ) race a TZ125.

For quality equipment that you know is genuine B&G, order the MicroSquirt from DIY Autotune.

Since the new V3.0 MicroSquirts don't have on-board coil drivers, you'll need to use either 'smart' COPs or - if you want to keep the stock 'dumb' coils on the bike - an external coil driver module. The MicroSquirt has two spark channels and can drive your stock coils in 'wasted spark'; DIY offers the 4-channel QuadSpark, while I've just started making my own Dual Channel Coil Driver.

Thanks Don. I've already narrowed my coil choice to the VW coil pack or the LS2 Truck coils with the heatsink on them. I may have a mounting issue (room) with the truck coils so the VW one looks more likely. I think they'll be better than my Grey 2.3-Ohm Dyna's? I don't know how much boost i'll be running so i definite don't want the spark weakened or blown out.

Next issue is coil leads but i guess thats not for here, i have no idea what values etc to look for in them!!


Ahhh.....a good old TZ, i dunno where you're from but we used to do this kinda thing with them

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXCmwJ3a ... sults_main

Don, before i finally go here, is there any advantage of me using ms1/ms2 over micro & what is the 'Extra' i see talked about?

For example, is the wideband function easier to setup with MS1/2 of do they have the capability to output the boost & A/F readings to a gauge? (i have another thread on the gauge thing)

The base MS1 uses a simpler processor and code, and it would likely be difficult to implement what you've mentioned, even with the 'Extra' firmware.

The MS2 and uS share the same processor and code, and have very similar capabilities. The Extra code supports 4-channel sequential ignition and injection, but it would be very difficult to modify the uS to provide the additional injector channels. Besides, the trigger scheme you're planning on doesn't allow for anything but basic ignition and injection. For what you're doing, I'd suggest the smaller, sealable Microsquirt would be better suited.

WBO2 setup is quite straightforward.

On the topic of gauges, I don't recall that any of the MS family actually offer gauge output. Driving an AFR gauge using the same output from the WBO2 controller feeding the ECU shouldn't be an issue.

Perhaps someone in the audience could chime in here, but I don't recall that the B&G code supports boost control. This might be a good reason to run the Extra code.

Boost will be controlled by a manual bleed valve type controller on the top yoke. There will be a 3 bar map sensor on the airbox with a vacuum line from the airbox to the sensor. On the original setup there was just a spliced feed from the sensor to the ECU & gauge, would this not show the boost electronically to the gauge?

Sure - but that's the sensor and wiring driving the gauge; your earlier posts sound like you want the ECU to accept the sensor signal and then drive the gauge through a separate wire.

The Extra code allows you to have a PWM-controlled solenoid driven against a 6x6 table, either open-loop (% duty) or closed loop (desired boost) vs RPM and engine load.

Sorry for the confusion, yes it did read like that. As long as i can get the boost & A/F displayed thats all i'll need